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parabens and sulfates

Parabens and Sulfates: Ingredients to Avoid in Skincare Products and What to Shop for Instead

Could your favourite beauty products be harmful to your health?

Parabens and sulfates are two common cosmetic components that top the list of toxic ingredients to avoid for various reasons. If you’ve been hearing a lot of talk about clean beauty lately and wondered what you can do to get on board, one of the best places to start is learning about harmful ingredients to watch out for in your cosmetics.

To help you get started, here’s a little breakdown on two harmful ingredients that are still quite common in beauty products today.

Bad news ingredients – why you should avoid parabens and sulfates:

Parabens

Parabens are synthetic chemicals used as preservatives in many beauty and household products worldwide. They appear on ingredient lists with names such as: isobutylparaben, butylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben, ethylparaben, and propylparabens. Added to many formulas to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, parabens are what help prolong the shelf-life of cosmetics. Parabens have been around since the 1920’s, but unfortunately, in more recent years, science has linked parabens to a host of serious health issues.

Alarmingly, research has shown that parabens can penetrate our skin barrier, enter our blood stream, and cause disruption of our endocrine system by mimicking hormones like oestrogen. This disruption of our body’s natural hormone signals can cause chemical imbalances within our body that can affect fertility leading to reproductive and developmental issues. Studies have also suggested that parabens could play a role in the development of human breast, ovary, and testicular cancer. For these reasons, many countries have banned the use of some parabens in personal care products. Parabens can also cause skin irritation, and there is research to suggest that there is a correlation between parabens in SPF products and damaged coral reefs.

While limited quantities of parabens are considered harmless and are not regulated by the FDA, the problem lies in repeated exposure with daily use of certain formulas. In fact, one 2018 study found teenage girls who regularly wore makeup tested positive for 20x the normal amount of propylparaben compared to those who did not or rarely wore makeup.

You may ask: “Why do companies continue to use parabens if they are so bad for us and the environment?”. One major reason is because they are cheap to manufacture, which ultimately means bigger profits!

Given the damage that can be caused to the endocrine system, reproductive system, and the environment, long-chain parabens (methyl-, isobutyl-, butyl-, isopropyl- and propylparaben) should not be used in personal care or cosmetic products.

Always check ingredient lists and know what you are putting onto and into your body!

parabens

Sulfates

Sulfates (also known as sulphates) are used as cleansing and foaming agents appearing in everyday health, beauty, and skincare products like body washes, detergents, shampoos, toothpaste, and many other household and personal care products. They are synthetic chemicals derived from fatty alcohols, made from palm kernel oil or petroleum oil sources.

Sulfates belong to a class of cleansers called anionic surfactants, with the most common sulfate compounds known as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Sulfates are hugely problematic both for the skin and the planet.

In beauty products, sulfates are used to help with foaming, lathering and cleansing, however, they are commonly reported as skin irritants, stripping away the skins natural oils and leaving it feeling dry, irritated and inflamed. Studies have shown that sulfates can penetrate the skins barrier, cause damage to cellular membranes, and cause reactions in sensitive skin types leading to itchiness, watery eyes, and even dermatitis. Research has also shown that using shampoos with sulfates can cause scalp irritation, excessive drying of hair and skin, and even hair loss. Perhaps what is even more concerning is the negative impact sulfates have on our environment. Sulfates are mainly petroleum-derived, but they can also be manufactured from coconut or palm oil. Petroleum products and palm oil are controversial due to their association with natural habitat destruction, climate change, pollution, and greenhouse gases.

The interesting thing is that sulfates are not actually necessary! The lather, froth and foam we have become conditioned to expect when using sulfate-containing products is NOT NEEDED, and it is NOT what does the cleaning. You do not need a lather, froth, or foam to effectively clean your skin or hair.

What to shop for instead

If all of the above sounds like bad news, the good news is that parabens and sulfates are completely unnecessary for formulating products. As more and more consumers demand cleaner cosmetics, your options for shopping paraben- and sulfate-free are expanding. By simply checking ingredients and making empowered choices, you will be able to easily make the switch to clean beauty in no time. We recommend always looking for simple formulas with plant-based ingredients that you recognize (and can pronounce.)

At Scenturie, we are committed to creating skincare products that are better for your skin, your body and the planet as well. We use only pure, plant-based, sustainable ingredients, and promise never to use toxic additives including parabens, sulfates, glycols, silicones, mineral oils, phenoxyethanol, and phthalates. We also avoid synthetic fragrances and use only botanical essential oils to bring you clean, holistic, beauty and skincare, just the way nature intended.

Visit our website to learn more: www.scenturie.co.nz

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Natural Skincare

Scenturie Natural Skincare

References

Parabens in Cosmetics By The Food & Drug Administration

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/parabens-cosmetics

What Are Parabens? By Tasha Stoiber, PhD, for The Environmental Working Group https://www.ewg.org/what-are-parabens

Should People Be Concerned About Parabens? By Scientific American

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/should-people-be-concerned-about-parabens-in-beauty-products/

Should You Be Going Sulfate Free? By Daniela Ginta, Medically reviewed by Debra Rose Wilson, Ph.D.

https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/sulfates

Why Are Sulfates Bad for You? By Shaziya Allarakha, MD, Medically reviewed by Pallavi Suyog Uttekar, MD

https://www.medicinenet.com/why_are_sulfates_bad_for_you/article.htm

Parabens and Sulfates: Ingredients to Avoid in Skincare Products and What to Shop for Instead Read More »

Bakuchiol serum

Bakuchiol: The New Natural Retinol Your Skin Needs

Bakuchiol (pronounced buh-koo-chee-all) is an anti-ageing active that is making waves in the skincare world and is showing very promising results in skin care science. Bakuchiol has been described by beauty publications as “retinol’s gentle sister”, a natural, less-irritating, and vegan alternative to retinol that works equally strong magic.

The word ‘anti-ageing’ is one of the biggest and most loaded skincare terms in our world today. In a society that places so much value on a youthful appearance, claims surrounding anti-ageing ingredients in skincare are all around us. Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, the natural ageing process that we all experience cannot be prevented or reversed. At some point, we will all become aware of changes to our skin that are associated with the ageing process such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, thinning, loss of tone, textural irregularities , and uneven pigmentation. The rate of these changes will depend on many factors such as genetics, environment, skincare habits, diet, occupation, lifestyle factors, medical conditions, etc.

The choice over whether to address any skin-related ageing changes is entirely up to you, and by no means necessary, however incorporating proven active anti-ageing ingredients in your skin care regime can help to slow down premature ageing and keep your skin looking and feeling its healthy best.

What is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a natural extract from the seeds of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). The Babchi plant is native to India and Sri Lanka, and is highly valued for its medicinal properties. It has been used in Indian and Chinese traditional medicine to treat a variety of diseases, with positive effects on eczema, rosacea, acne, and other skin conditions.

Bakuchiol is a potent antioxidant that has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that can help to calm and heal skin. It can visibly reduce skin discolourations from environmental exposure, and has a pronounced soothing effect on skin.

Bakuchiol has also been shown to significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which is why you’re seeing it more and more in skincare products.

bakuchiol flower
Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia)

How does Bakuchiol benefit skin?

Bakuchiol works in a similar way to retinol, by triggering the pathways that increase skin cell turnover, making way for the production of new skin cells underneath. This process slows the breakdown of collagen, and stimulates its production, helping to thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles start. This works to reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, increase skin firmness, regulate oil production, and reduce pore size, resulting in a smoother, healthier looking complexion. 

Retinol

Retinol (Vitamin A) has been a favourite anti-ageing active in the beauty industry for years and to many people its popularity is justified. However, it is also well-known to cause severe irritation to the skin of many. Redness, stinging and flaky skin are a few of the side effects in those that are sensitive to retinol. Retinol also increases the sensitivity of your skin to the sun which is dangerous in countries with high rates of skin cancer like New Zealand and Australia. Retinol also comes with a warning to pregnant and breastfeeding women, which is concerning. Even people without sensitive skin often react to retinol when first used.

Remember, if you are looking for natural skincare, retinol is NOT a natural ingredient. It is often produced from animal products, and it may be tested on animals. If cruelty-free skincare (i.e. skincare that is not tested on animals) is important to you then make sure you know where the retinol in your product comes from.

Bakuchiol

Despite its use in traditional medicine, bakuchiol is a relatively new ingredient in modern skincare. Research has shown positive results so far and bakuchiol is now becoming widely accepted as being a good natural alternative to retinol in skincare products. Here are some good reasons why you should consider including bakuchiol in your skincare routine:

Benefits of Bakuchiol:

 

1) SUITABLE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

Bakuchiol, unlike retinol, has been shown to be suitable for sensitive skin and is generally well tolerated. A study published in the Journal of Drugs on Dermatology in 2020, examined the tolerability, efficacy, and protective effects of a natural skincare product containing bakuchiol. Sixty women between 40 – 65 years of age with sensitive skin and mild to moderate photo-damaged skin were monitored for four weeks using the skincare product twice daily. The results concluded that the bakuchiol skincare product was well tolerated and effective with significant improvements in visual and tactile smoothness, clarity, radiance, overall appearance, and anti-aging. There was also a significant improvement in skin moisture content.

2) SUITABLE FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Bakuchiol has excellent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it an effective option for eliminating acne-causing bacteria and reducing swelling in acne-prone skin. Bakuchiol also helps to regulate the skins natural oil production, which in turn helps to settle acne.

3) SUITABLE FOR USE DAY AND NIGHT

Unlike retinol which causes sun sensitivity and can only be applied at night, bakuchiol has no such effect and can be applied as part of your morning and evening skincare routine. As with any skincare routine, a sunscreen with suitable SPF should be applied as the last step of your morning skincare routine.

4) SUITABLE FOR VEGANS

Bakuchiol is a natural plant-derived ingredient, devoid of animal products, making it suitable for everyone, including vegans.

5) CAN BE USED ALONGSIDE OTHER ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Due to bakuchiol’s natural composition, it is considered safe to use with other active ingredients and products in your skincare routine. This is in stark contrast to retinol which can cause skin irritation when used in conjunction with specific skincare actives.

* Pregnancy: Although bakuchiol has been claimed by many brands to be safe for use during pregnancy, there is no strong evidence to back this up as most cosmetics are not actually tested on pregnant women for ethical reasons. Bakuchiol is still a relatively new product and although it has the potential to be safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding, until research studies can prove its safety it is probably best to check with your doctor before using, or avoid.

Bakuchiol vs Retinol

Bakuchiol

Retinol

  • Natural plant-based alternative to retinol.
  • Plumps and hydrates skin.
  • Reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
  • Improves skin elasticity and firmness.
  • Boosts collagen production.
  • Smooths and evens skin tone and texture.
  • Skin looks radiant and glowing.
  • Considered safe for sensitive skin.
  • Safe to use morning and night and during sun exposure.
  • Safe to use with other active ingredients.
  • Vegan and cruelty-free.
  • Synthetic derivative of vitamin A.
  • Plumps and hydrates skin.
  • Reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
  • Improves skin elasticity and firmness.
  • Boosts collagen production.
  • Smooths and evens skin tone and texture.
  • Skin looks radiant and glowing.
  • May cause irritation, redness, and a burning sensation.
  • Not safe to use during sun exposure, only use at night.
  • Can cause skin irritation when used with other skincare actives.
  • Often produced from animal products, and may be tested on animals.

What does the research on Bakuchiol show us?

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2014 compared the activity of bakuchiol on a group of women, aged 40 to 65 years. The women applied a bakuchiol skincare product twice daily and were monitored for twelve weeks to assess the presence of fine lines and wrinkles, roughness, dryness, skin tone, elasticity, and firmness of their skin. The results concluded that there was a significant decrease in wrinkle depth by 20%, a significant improvement in pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness, and an overall reduction in photo-damage. All these improvements were without the unfavorable reactions usually seen with the use of retinol.

Another study published in The British Journal of Dermatology in 2019, showed that bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol at targeting fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, however it is also less irritating to skin. In a randomized, double-blind study 44 patients were asked to apply either bakuchiol 0·5% cream twice daily or retinol 0·5% cream daily. After 12 weeks, it was shown that bakuchiol was just as effective as retinol in significantly decreasing wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds. The retinol users however, reported more facial skin scaling and stinging. The study demonstrated that bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated than retinol.

model with serum

How and when should I use Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol can be applied topically as a serum or a moisturiser. Apply once or twice a day, depending on your skins hydration needs, followed by a suitable SPF sunscreen in the morning. Studies have shown concentrations of bakuchiol between 0.5-2% to be most effective, with 1% being optimal for maximising skin benefits. While bakuchiol is generally non-irritating, it is possible for anyone to react to any ingredient, so it is advised to perform a patch test before use.

Bakuchiol has more than proven its worth as an effective anti-ageing ingredient in skincare. It allows those who prefer to use natural skincare to enjoy the dermatological benefits of a proven anti-ageing ingredient that is suitable for even the most sensitive of skin types. With all the benefits of retinol, but without the nasty side effects, this natural wonder is the ingredient of choice for those who value healthy, youthful looking skin.

Super Boost Bakuchiol Serum Benefits

Scenturie’s Super Boost Bakuchiol Serum benefits most skin types, and works to restore optimal skin health, resilience, and a youthful radiant glow. It contains a nutrient-rich, collagen-boosting blend of plant oils, and features 1% Bakuchiol, shown in studies to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin texture and tone. It is suitable for all skin types including sensitive, dry, ageing, combination, and acne-prone skin.

Learn more about how best to care for ageing skin HERE.

Bakuchiol: The New Natural Retinol Your Skin Needs Read More »

The best skincare routine for your skin type

The Best Skincare Routine for Your Skin Type

Let’s Face It…

 

Although it may not be top of your list of priorities at present, having the best skincare routine for your skin type, and paying attention to the health of your skin will be worth it when you look in the mirror years from now. Skin that is well cared for, especially the skin on your face, helps you feel good about yourself as you age, and tells others a lot about you.

A consistent skincare routine is far more important than you may think. Lifestyle and environmental factors can cause irreversible skin damage leading to premature aging. Using the right type of skincare products for your skin type can help nourish and protect your skin, keeping it looking healthy and giving you confidence, no matter your age.

What are the Steps in a Skincare Routine?

A skincare routine is a simple daily set of steps you follow with your favourite skincare products. Typically, people have two different routines, one for the morning and one for the evening. They only differ slightly and almost always consist of a few essential products that are used to:

  • Cleanse – Wash and clean your skin removing sweat, dirt, make-up, and impurities.
  • Tone – Remove any cleanser residue, balance the skin’s pH level, hydrate, and prepare the skin for the next important step – a moisturiser.
  • Moisturise – add moisture to hydrate your skin.
  • Optimise – Feed and nourish your skin, seal in moisture, and address any issues your skin may have.
  • Protect –Prevent environmental elements damaging your skin.

These are steps dermatologists recommend, to allow the skin on your face to be the healthiest it can be, and to keep it looking its best. 

What are the Different Skin Types?

There are six ‘types of skin’ that are commonly referred to, however, everybody’s skin is different, and it is not uncommon to have a mixture of different skin types. The type of skin you have can change throughout life based on different factors such as environment, diet, hormonal changes, stress, and climate, to name a few.

The SIX recognised skin types are as follows:

  1. Normal / Balanced
  2. Dry
  3. Oily
  4. Combination
  5. Sensitive
  6. Acne-prone

How to Determine Your Skin Type:

Before determining the best skincare routine for your skin, you need to establish what your skin type is, ensuring you select the products most suitable for you. Your skin type is unique to you and it can take time to find out what suits it best. A person’s skin type can be determined by an assortment of skin characteristics, including:

Water content: Influences the skins elasticity.

Lipid (oil) content: Influences the softness of skin.

Sensitivity level: Influences the reactivity and tolerance to different substances.

Follow these three steps to determine your skin type:

  1. Start with a clean face. Wash your face with a mild cleanser and gently dry your face. Try to pat instead of rubbing. Make sure all makeup is removed.
  2. Simply wait. Wait an hour without touching your face or putting anything on it. This will let your skin rest. This time will also give it time to settle back to its typical state.
  3. Take a tissue or blotting paper and press it to various areas of your face. This will pick up any oils on your face and help you understand what type of skin you have. 
  4. Hold the sheets up to the light to see the oil markings. If the sheets reveal an abundance of oil in all areas of the face, you have oily skin; if they absorb little to no oil, then you probably have dry skin; if the sheets show only a small amount of oil from your T-Zone, you have combination skin; and if you only see minimal oil from every area of your face, you most likely have normal skin.

Below are the characteristics and typical requirements of each skin type, as well as the optimal skincare routine for each. Click on the suggested products to learn more.

The Best Skincare Routine for Your Skin Type

1. Normal Balanced Skin

Normal Balanced skin refers to any skin that is not too oily or too dry, it is well-balanced. Pore size is just visible, and skin should feel soft, supple, and smooth. Most skin products are tolerated but care is still needed to ensure optimal hydration and nourishment are met. Harsh products that are used too often can still result in irritated skin – even with the most balanced of skins, hence it is best to use gentle, natural products. Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

2. Dry Skin

Dry skin may feel tight and/or show patches of dry/ flaky skin. If not addressed, dry skin can lead to a dull complexion with an increased likelihood of peeling, cracking, itchiness, and/or irritation. Some factors that contribute to dry skin include dry, cold weather, low humidity, and washing your face in very hot water. Moisture is essential for dry skin and face oils, serums, and moisturisers with hydrating ingredients such as shea butter, can be very beneficial. Avoid using anything with harsh synthetic chemicals, such as parabens, as it may irritate dry skin. Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

3. Oily Skin

If you dab your face with a tissue and oil remains on the tissue it is likely you have oily skin. Oily skin occurs when the skin produces too much sebum, or oil, which can lead to blocked pores and blemishes. Skin may look shiny with larger than normal pores. Stress, heat, hormonal changes, and diet are some of the factors that may contribute to excessively oily skin.

Believe it or not, oily skin needs moisture. It may seem like your face is overrun with moisture, and adding even more, can be counterintuitive, however oil and moisture are different things. If your oily skin isn’t hydrated, it can overproduce even more oils creating an even oiler face. 

Those with oily skin should look for products that help balance excess oil and are non-comedogenic (i.e. they don’t clog skin pores). Washing your face twice daily and exfoliating 2-3 times per week can help remove dead skin cells from skin’s surface. Avoid using anything with harsh chemicals on your skin as it can irritate your skin and increase oil production further. Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

4. Combination Skin

Combination skin is a mixture of different skin types. It is typically a combination of dry and oily skin. There are basically two types of combination skin:

  • Dry and oily – This type has an oily t-zone with dry skin everywhere else.
  • Balanced and oily – This type has an oily t-zone and balanced skin everywhere else.

Combination skin can be a mixture of oily, dry, and balanced skin in some cases.

Even though it’s a pretty common type of skin, it may seem overwhelming to find the best skincare routine. After all, what do you use when your skin is a mixture of oily, dry, or balanced? Thankfully it is still a relatively easy routine with gentle and light cleansing. Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

5. Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin tends to have reactions to many different products and allergens. When sensitive skin is exposed to irritants it can react quickly producing symptoms such as redness, itching, burning, and dryness.

Determining and avoiding the substances that cause skin reactions and discomfort is very important for this skin type. Sensitive skin types should avoid any skin products with fragrance or alcohol as these are known irritants. Using gentle, natural products is best for those with sensitive skin. Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

6.  Acne-Prone Skin

 If you often have breakouts and your skin lives in a constant state of redness and blemishes, you likely have acne-prone skin. Acne-prone skin has pores that can quickly become clogged. Most people assume acne-prone skin is typically oily. That is not always the case. People can have dry skin, oily, or a combination of any of the skin types and still have acne-prone skin. 

Acne-prone skin can sometimes be due to:

  • Age – It is not just preteens and teens who can suffer from breakouts when they hit puberty. The hormone changes during that time and later in life can cause breakouts. 
  • Environment – Pollution, weather, and pollen all have a big part in the health of your skin.
  • Makeup – Some makeup products clog your pores. They can also not be washed off properly and cause breakouts and irritation to the skin.
  • Pollution – Smog and pollen can also cause clogged pores.

This type of skin needs products that are lighter and won’t clog the pores. The pores need to be cleansed, and the skin needs help fighting off acne. This routine can help keep your acne at bay or at least managed. Acne-prone skin can be irritated easily. You should try fragrance-free skincare products with non-comedogenic ingredients.  Always follow your morning routine with a suitable SPF.

Consistency is the Key to Healthy Skin.

Along with a healthy diet and lifestyle, a good consistent skincare routine is important to maintain the health of your skin. Each skin type is different and often needs a different routine to maintain it. It is important to note that it takes time for a new routine to work. It can take anywhere from one to four months to see the full benefits of a new skincare routine, trust the process. There are no set products for each skin type. One product that works for one person may not work well for you, and your skin needs may change throughout the year depending on the season, weather, hormonal changes etc. As long as you stay within the routines mentioned above, you can choose your own products and change them as needed. 

Healthy Glowing Skin can be Yours!

Regardless of when you start your skincare routine, you will soon see and feel positive results. This will help you feel motivated to keep up the good work! Your skin will become more balanced, its texture and tone will improve, blemishes and outbreaks will reduce, and you will be protecting it from further damage. Consistency is the key! Stick to your skincare routine and your skin will soon start looking and feeling more radiant and healthy.

The Best Skincare Routine for Your Skin Type Read More »

The best skincare routine for your skin type

Hyaluronic acid: The best kept secret for your skin!

In the world of beauty and skincare, there is always some new ingredient that generates a lot of buzz. Although it has been on the market for some time, the buzz about this ingredient does not seem to be dying down anytime soon. Hyaluronic acid is commonly featured in many skincare products such as serums, moisturisers, toners, supplements (and even injectables), and can prove to be a worthwhile addition to your daily skin-care regimen. The staying power of this naturally occurring molecule is due to its ability to combine with water to plump your skin and impart a soft, youthful texture. Glowing skin can be yours. Let us take a closer look at this in-demand ingredient…

coenzyme Q10 natural skincare

 

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that naturally occurs in the skin and connective tissues of the human body. 50% of the total hyaluronic acid present in the body is found in the skin. This power-packed polysaccharide provides cushioning and lubrication of our skin, joints, hair, nerves, and eyes. Its ability to attract, bind to, and retain water makes it very useful in the war on dry skin, and it is a valuable addition to skincare regimes.

As a powerful humectant, hyaluronic acid can draw and retain moisture, preventing it from evaporating into the air. It can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water giving it super hydrating qualities that provide a deep moisturising effect to skin.

Hyaluronic acid and skin ageing

Skin aging is a multifactorial process comprising two distinct and independent mechanisms: intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Youthful skin retains its smooth texture, elasticity, and resilience due to its high-water content. Daily stressors, in conjunction with the normal aging process, causes loss of moisture to the skin. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid, with its unique ability to retain water.

Like collagen and elastin, naturally occurring hyaluronic acid decreases as we age. Studies have shown a marked disappearance of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) while still present in the dermis (layer beneath the epidermis). The epidermis loses the principal molecule responsible for binding and retaining water molecules, resulting in loss of skin moisture. This contributes to the apparent dehydration, atrophy and loss of elasticity that characterises aging skin.

What are the benefits of hyaluronic acid in skincare products?

The ability to retain moisture and provide lasting hydration is a major reason why hyaluronic acid continues to be popular in the beauty and skincare industry. The benefits of this moisture retaining property in skincare products is discussed below:

1) Promotes moisture retention.

Hyaluronic acid penetrates the skin and binds water to skin cells, infusing all layers of the skin with valuable moisture. Most importantly it helps skin cells retain that precious moisture, leaving skin looking and feeling hydrated all day long.

2) Acts as a humectant.

A humectant is a water-loving substance that attracts, retains, and preserves moisture. The humectant properties of hyaluronic acids allow it to infuse the epidermis with moisture and then continue drawing moisture from the surrounding environment providing long lasting hydration to skin.

3) Helps prevent premature aging of skin.

It is common knowledge that the loss of moisture in the skin is capable of aging skin prematurely. The ability of hyaluronic acid to attract and retain moisture in the skin means that if we apply it as part of our beauty regime it helps to promote a hydrated, youthful, healthy complexion.

 4) It is rapidly absorbed.

Unlike some of its counterparts in the beauty industry, hyaluronic acid is quickly and easily absorbed by the skin making it a highly efficient ingredient.

5) It is non-irritating to skin.

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our bodies and is generally safe for all skin types.

6) It combines well with other ingredients.

Hyaluronic acid can be paired with many other ingredients in skincare including retinol, bakuchiol, vitamins, peels, and other acids. The only exception to this is acids with low pH levels, such as glycolic acid, which can degrade hyaluronic acid and reduce its effectiveness.

Outside of beauty and skincare, hyaluronic acid can speed up wound healing by regulating inflammation within the body, can treat dry eyes, and hyaluronic supplements can treat joint problems.

Award-winning skincare products with hyaluronic acid

Scenturie’s Ultra-Rich Natural Night Cream and Replenishing Natural Toner are award-winning skincare products with hyaluronic acid. Packed full of essential vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids Ultra-Rich Natural Night Cream is easily absorbed and works to soothe, repair, and regenerate the skin overnight. Replenishing Natural Toner hydrates, balances, and calms the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed and re-energised. 

What does the research show?

A study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology in 2014 looked at the efficacy of low molecular weight topical hyaluronic acid preparations in the treatment of wrinkles, skin hydration, and skin elasticity in humans. Thirty-three (33) women were monitored for eight (8) weeks to test the anti-wrinkle properties. The results concluded that there was a statistically significant moisturising effect from products (whether lotions, serums, or creams) at each treatment interval. The depth of wrinkles was reduced by 40%, skin hydration increased by 96% and elasticity increased by up to 55% at the end of the eight (8) week period.

What role does diet play?

When considering your diet, there are a variety of nutrients that play a role in supporting the production of hyaluronic acid and in preventing its deterioration. Magnesium supports the body’s production of hyaluronic acid, the flavonoid naringenin inhibits its breakdown, and phytoestrogens work to increase its presence in the skin. Read more about the best hyaluronic foods for your skin here. A nutritious diet rich in antioxidants, including fresh fruit, vegetables, nuts, and seeds, will ensure you get enough nutrients to support the body’s production and maintenance of hyaluronic acid, and ultimately healthy skin.

Who can use hyaluronic acid?

Generally, hyaluronic acid is safe for use on all skin types. Hyaluronic acid is non-irritating and has not been found as a trigger for acne, rosacea, or any skin allergies. People who suffer from dry skin, or those of us with more mature skin, will gain the most benefit from products with hyaluronic acid because natural production of it by our bodies declines as we get older.

Prevention is the best strategy when it comes to skin ageing

Prevention is the best and most effective way to help work against extrinsic skin aging effects. The best prevention strategy to work against the harmful action of free radicals is a lifestyle with a balanced nutritional diet, good quality sleep, great self-care, regular physical exercise, and good stress management. Alongside this, a morning and night skincare routine using the best quality skincare products you can afford, will give your skin all it needs to glow.

 

The Final Word

Our skin is the largest organ in our bodies. It deserves great care and attention as we will wear it every day for the rest of our lives. The ability of hyaluronic acid to restore moisture to the skin, improve skins texture and elasticity, decrease the appearance of wrinkles, strengthen the protective barrier, and protect against environmental assault, makes it a very valuable addition to any skincare regime. With so many benefits, what could be preventing you from giving it a try? We encourage you to let this power-packed polysaccharide become part of your skin routine, and let your skin radiate with happiness and good health!

Hyaluronic acid: The best kept secret for your skin! Read More »

Why natural skincare is best

Why Natural Skincare is Best

Natural Skincare & Clean Beauty

The beauty and skincare industry has seen its fair share of trends over the years. While you may have been happy to see some of those trends go, others have been beneficial. ‘Clean beauty’ is one such trend. ‘Clean beauty’ refers to the fact that many consumers (as much as 50% of women according to a 2017 survey) preferentially seek out facial and skincare products that have all-natural or organic ingredients. These products tend to be free of chemicals such as parabens and sulfates which have long been staples within the beauty and skincare industry. You may recognize them as the products with a plant on the label or packaging in muted, earthy tones, with words such as “natural”, “non-toxic”, and “cruelty-free” on its labels.

This shift away from traditional beauty and skincare ingredients has had its benefits. Based on a study conducted by the Environmental Working group, on average, it is estimated that women can put on one hundred and sixty-eight (168) chemicals on their body via their daily skincare regimen. That is a lot of chemicals! What is even more alarming is that not all these chemicals are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), so unfortunately you may not be aware of exactly what you are exposing yourself to. Is it safe or not? Is the benefit worth the potential risk for other problems? These are questions that we should all ask ourselves. We have listed below the reasons why natural skincare is best.

1. Better for your skin and better for your health

We know that the skin is the body’s first line of defence, and so it stands to reason that we would do all we can to preserve it and maintain it in optimal health. Why then would we expose it to harmful chemicals and toxins that can break down this protective barrier? What is even more concerning is that it has been shown that many of these chemicals and toxins can potentially be absorbed into the bloodstream where they can affect the nervous system, immune system, and reproductive system.

It is also noteworthy to mention that many of these products also have synthetic fragrances that (although they smell pleasant) are used to cover up chemicals. Most of these fragrances are also unregulated by the FDA and they may contain toxic chemicals. Many studies have reported that synthetic fragrances have the potential to cause “possible mutagenic and genotoxic effects.” Synthetic fragrances have also been found to contain hormone disruptors which have been linked abnormal cell reproduction.

By making the switch to using natural skincare products, you can put your mind at ease. These products tend to be void of many of the added chemicals that are unsafe. Natural products tend to be less irritating and once you choose the right products for your skin, you should be well on your way to natural, glowing skin. By removing those unnecessary chemicals, and using gentler products on your skin, you can avoid those pesky breakouts.

Why natural skincare is best

2. Better for the environment

Natural skincare is not only better for your body, but it is also better for the environment. When you use commercial beauty products and the chemicals are washed down the drain, they can be harmful to the local waterways. Ingredients within these products may also require mining which negatively affects that environment in so many ways.

Along with health concerns over the long list of hard-to-pronounce chemicals that are often found in conventional beauty and skincare products, there is also the fact that these often create a large carbon footprint. Ingredients commonly found in conventional beauty products such as petroleum and silicone are not only bad for our health but very harmful for the environment. The way in which traditional ingredients are extracted or manufactured often significantly impacts the environment, even if they occur naturally. For example, palm oil is a naturally occurring substance but for it to be harvested land must be stripped, leaving destruction in its wake. Most of the world’s palm oil is produced unsustainably with ancient native forests being replaced with palm plantations at frightening rates. This is leading to unprecedented levels of deforestation, fires, and habitat loss, which is threatening the survival of species such as the orangutan, Sumatran tiger, and the Sumatran rhino. The Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO)  has been working towards controlling the damaging aspects of palm oil production, but there still is much work to be done to close loopholes and ensure palm oil is in fact truly sustainable.

The packaging of products is also very problematic as plastics from packaging contribute to overflowing landfills and pollution of our oceans. Many natural brands try to find sustainable alternatives to packaging such as reusable glass containers or recycled materials.

 

3. Free from harmful chemicals

Many often find that by switching to natural skincare they find better products. Natural skincare companies invest time and money into ensuring that their products are safe for all skin types and do not have any deleterious side effects on you or your body. Unlike conventional products, there are no parabens, sulfates, phthalates, glycols, silicones, or phenoxyethanol.

But what is so bad about these chemicals? Let’s talk now about the common chemicals found in skincare products and why you should avoid them.

Chemicals you should avoid in your skincare products and why:

Chemical components on the shampoo

Parabens

Parabens are a group of chemicals widely used as artificial preservatives in cosmetic and body care products since the 1920s. Scientific studies suggest that parabens can penetrate the skin barrier, enter our bodies, and cause disruption of our endocrine system. This can interfere with our hormonal production by mimicking estrogen, potentially leading to reproductive and developmental issues. It has also been suggested in studies that parabens could play a role in the development of human breast, ovary, and testicular cancer. For these reasons, many countries have banned the use of some parabens in personal care products. Parabens can also cause skin irritation and there is research to suggest that there is a correlation between parabens in SPF products and damaged coral reefs.

Given the damage that can be caused to the endocrine system, reproductive system, and the environment, long-chain parabens (methyl-, isobutyl-, butyl-, isopropyl- and propylparaben) should not be used in personal care or cosmetic products.

Phthalates

Phthalates are chemicals that are used in a variety of household items, including personal-care products. One called diethylphthalate (DEP) is commonly used in fragrance ingredients. Like parabens, scientific studies have also shown that phthalates can be harmful to our bodies. A 2020 scientific review on the long-term consequences of phthalate exposure concluded that, based on several in vitro and in vivo studies, phthalates can act as endocrine disruptors and cause moderate reproductive and developmental toxicities. Furthermore, phthalates can pass through the placental barrier and affect the developing foetus. The potential adverse health effects in humans make it a ‘no-brainer’ to avoid these chemicals wherever possible. Phthalates usually appear on a label as DHEP or DiBP.

Sulphates

Sulfates are skin irritants that can strip skin of its natural oils causing dryness and irritation. Since it can penetrate the skin’s barrier, the continued use of sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), can cause a reaction that makes the skin more susceptible to the absorption of other irritants. Sulfates are mainly derived from petroleum but can be derived from plants, such as coconut or palm oil. Petroleum products are controversial due to their association with climate change, pollution, and greenhouse gases. Palm oil is controversial due to habitat destruction, amongst many other things.

A natural skincare alternative to sulfates includes gentle foaming agents like sugar or coconut. The best way to safeguard against the use of sulphates is to carefully read the ingredient list on product labels.

Glycols

Propylene glycol is derived from petroleum. It is a humectant, which means that it increases moisture retention in skin and hair. Typically, it is well tolerated by the skin and does not cause any redness or irritation, however, the problem with propylene glycol lies within the fact that it is a penetration-enhancing humectant. This means that it could possibly allow harmful toxins to be absorbed by the skin, where under normal circumstances this would not happen. This can include skin toxins such as pollutants and harsh chemicals that can cause irritation or allergic reaction.

Silicones

Silicones are commonly found in skin and beauty products where they confer a silky, luxurious texture. They can make skin appear and feel visibly smoother even though the effect is oftentimes temporary. Silicones are also water-resistant and so they can create a seal over skin that provides “hydration” benefits. However, silicones are not always beneficial to the skin. Since silicone is known to ‘seal things in’, this means that it can also trap dirt, sweat, bacteria, and dead cells.  When these are trapped for long periods of time, it can cause breakouts on the skin, especially for people who are prone to acne. Its semi-occlusive properties can also prevent additional moisture from being absorbed by your skin, leaving it looking dull and dry. The truth is that silicones offer virtually no benefit to your skin and any benefit they do offer is very short-lived and they often leave behind a heavy coating. From an environmental perspective, most silicones are not biodegradable. They wash down into our drains and into the environment, where they accumulate and can cause toxicity to wildlife.

As consumers trying to use high-quality ingredients that are better for our skin and the environment, the solution is to go natural with things like aloe vera, shea butter, and jojoba oil.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that is commonly used in many cosmetics and personal care products. It is an ether alcohol that is colorless and has a rose-like aroma and it is present in so many daily use products that you are likely to have a cupboard full of it at home. Phenoxyethanol is a popular ingredient as it inhibits microbial growth, stabilizes products, and enhances shelf-life. It can be listed on a label under several names, including 2-phenoxyethanol, phenoxytol, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, and 1-hydroxy-2-phenoxyethane. According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol is safe for all consumers when used as a preservative in cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 1%. Adverse systemic effects have been observed in toxicological studies on animals and plants but supposedly only when the levels of exposure were much higher than those to which consumers are exposed when using phenoxyethanol-containing cosmetic products. Interestingly, phenoxyethanol is classified as an irritant to the skin, eyes, and lungs, and as a result Japan and the EU have restricted its use. The question we all need to ask ourselves is “What happens when many other phenoxyethanol containing products are applied to our skin daily?”. Products such as: liquid hand soap, body wash, cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer, sunscreen, foundation, make-up, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, hair products, aftershave, dishwashing liquid, clothes washing liquid, bench spray, the list goes on. Phenoxyethanol is rapidly absorbed into the body once it makes skin contact. Although the single product you are using may only have 1% concentration of phenoxyethanol, what happens when you use many other products containing phenoxyethanol during the day, as we all do? That is a lot of phenoxyethanol being absorbed into your body, and/or being washed down the drain into the waterways.  

Preservation of skincare and personal care products is crucial to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungus, and microbes, however there are effective, approved, natural alternatives to phenoxyethanol which many natural skincare companies are now using.

There are other chemicals commonly found in beauty and skincare products that have also been found to be harmful. For example, aluminum is a toxic metal commonly found in products that can mimic estrogen and disrupt the healthy functioning of the endocrine system. Many products also contain synthetic fragrances, that are derived from petrochemicals, and contain thousands of different ingredients that are not listed on the label. Consequently, there is no way of knowing what you are being exposed to.

What can you do?

Most people are exposed worldwide to a variety of potentially harmful substances every single day. Although the amounts may be small, and the effects sometimes poorly understood, continuous exposure to a mix of these chemicals over long periods could have consequences for the health and well-being of people and society. 

With the new wave of natural beauty companies pledging to abstain from using these chemicals, avoiding harmful chemicals, such as parabens, phthalates, and sulfates, has become easier.

Laboratory Technician examines a sample of shampoo

As a consumer the single most important thing you can do for yourself is read and understand cosmetic labels! Become familiar with the chemicals in skincare products and decide what is important to you. Are you happy to be putting that paraben-containing product on your skin knowing that it could cause you adverse health problems down the track? Are you happy to buy that product that uses palm oil knowing that widespread devastation has occurred to make it? Are you happy to buy products packaged in plastic knowing the disastrous consequences of plastic pollution to our planet? Empower yourself and become an informed, conscious consumer. Buy natural products that list their ingredients on their labels and website. Choose products that are free from the chemicals listed above. Support companies that do not package their products in plastic. Buy products from companies that care about the things you care about and don’t just ‘talk the talk’.

Natural Skincare is best!

In conclusion, ‘clean beauty’ brands have been investing in our health and the wellbeing of our planet. It is important to support brands that not only use natural ingredients but that also align with your beliefs whether it is natural, vegan, organic, or cruelty-free. Guilt-free skincare is in! Skip the cocktail of chemicals – and embrace natural skincare! Your skin, your health, and the environment will certainly be glad you did!

Hipster girl enjoying nature in the park

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pH Scale

The Importance of pH in Skincare

What is pH?

The term “pH” refers to “potential of hydrogen” and concerns the activity of hydrogen ions (molecules that carry a positive or negative charge) in a water-based solution. Hydrogen makes up 2/3 of water, as water consists of 2 hydrogen molecules and 1 oxygen molecule, H²O.

The pH of a solution is indicated by a numeric scale from 0-14. 7 is pH neutral, anything below 7 is considered acidic, and anything greater than 7 is considered alkaline. Lemon juice has a pH of 2 which is very acidic, while ammonia has a pH of 12, which is highly alkaline.

What is the pH of skin?

Although different research studies cite varying numbers the collected research shows skin’s average pH to be 4.7 making it naturally acidic. Men’s skin tends to be more acidic than women’s skin, and although the pH of our skin increases with age, it remains acidic.

What is the skins ‘acid mantle’?

Skin has a protective film on its surface known as its acid mantle. The acid mantle plays a vital role in protecting the skin’s surface and lower layers from external threats. Skin’s acidic pH also plays a role in keeping its delicate microbiome balanced. An acidic microbiome makes it more difficult for harmful pathogens to multiply but lets the good microbes flourish.

How does pH affect skin?

When the skins pH is repeatedly disturbed it may cause or worsen skin problems. A dry, tight feeling is often the first sign that skin is suffering from a pH imbalance.

Highly acidic (pH 2.5 or lower) or alkaline (pH 8 or greater) products can cause a significant disruption in skin’s pH making it vulnerable to factors that can trigger breakouts, signs of eczema, redness, and sensitivity. That is why daily use of products with a pH that is too high or too low can visibly and progressively damage the skin.
To avoid skin problems, many people look for pH-balanced skin care products. This refers to products formulated with a pH that falls in the range of normal, healthy skin. That range is most often cited as being between pH 4 and pH 7, but studies have shown that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0.

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Natural vs Synthetic fragrances

Why we believe natural ingredients are the better option for our health and for the environment

Our skin is the largest organ in our body and the way we look after it will determine the health and appearance of our skin now and in the future. The many nutrients and vitamins that are found in plant-based ingredients feed, nourish, and protect our skin cells keeping our skin looking its best. Everything we apply to our skin will find its way into our body one way or another whether it is absorbed, ingested, or inhaled. By choosing natural skin care products over those that use synthetic chemicals we can have confidence that the compounds we are applying to our body are safely absorbed, without unintended complications.

Nothing stays on our skins surface; everything is either absorbed into our body or washed off. Once absorbed it is either utilised by our cells, stored, or excreted. If washed off it will go down our sink or shower drain and make its way back into the environment. The compounds in natural skin care products can return to nature and be useful in some way again. Synthetic chemicals, on the other hand, can have devastating effects on the environment and can disrupt whole ecosystems.

A 2014 study by Garcia et al showed that the synthetic chemicals in pharmaceuticals and personal care products are a major environmental risk due to their toxicity in aquatic environments and wastewater treatment plants.

The number of emerging contaminants released into the environment from human activities is increasing daily and the real hazard of the continuous release of these huge amounts of chemicals into waters should not be underestimated according to a research study by Juliano & Magrini (2017).

They discuss how the effect on the environment from these toxic contaminants is largely unknown but if present in high levels they may accumulate in organisms and make their way back to the food chain or react with other pollutants to produce new unpredictable contaminants.

A report by Duke University (2017) discusses how the amount and diversity of pesticides, pharmaceuticals and other industrial chemicals that humans are constantly releasing into the environment are increasing at rates that match or exceed recent increases in CO2 emissions, nutrient pollution from nitrogen fertilizers, and other drivers of global change. Despite this, there is a severe lack of funding and research to assess the impacts and threats they pose to human and environmental health. The situation is considered unsustainable and of concern. Our lack of knowledge about how synthetic chemicals alter ecological processes is said to represent a critical blindspot in the rapidly developing field of global ecology

As consumers become more informed about the proven negative effects of synthetic chemicals on their health and the environment there is a growing desire to seek out natural alternatives. It is so important that consumers educate themselves and understand what is contained in the products that they use on their bodies so they can make informed health and environmental decisions on what to purchase.

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