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June 2021

Palm oil

Palm Oil: The Ugly Truth

The truth is that most people have no clue what goes into the products that they use daily. The ugly truth is that if they knew, they would probably never want to use them again. In the beauty and skincare industry, one such pariah is Palm Oil. The devastation caused by this one ingredient to people, wildlife, and the planet, is so complicated and far-reaching that it deserves our immediate attention.

What is Palm Oil?

Palm Oil is a type of vegetable oil that is derived from oil palms. Oil palms are an ancient staple crop in West Africa and the tree bears giant bunches of red fruit beneath its fronds. For millennia, humans have harvested the fruit, boiled, and pounded it to extract cooking oil, burned the kernel shells for heat, and used woven palm fronds to make rooves and baskets.

Palm Oil fruit (Elaeis guineensis).

Why is Palm Oil so Popular?

Owing to its versatility and the efficiency with which it can be produced (requiring only half as much land as other crops, such as soybeans, to generate a given amount of oil), the use of Palm Oil within the past few decades has skyrocketed. In fact, palm oil is the most efficient oilseed crop in the world. A hectare of palm oil plantation can produce almost ten times the amount of oil than the next closest type of oilseed such as rapeseed.

Palm Oil has been successfully transplanted to other tropical regions and it is now mainly supplied by Indonesia and Malaysia. It is now the most popular vegetable oil in the world, accounting for one-third of global consumption, and it is almost unavoidable, being found in many consumer and industrial products, such as food and beverages, personal care and beauty products, bioenergy and fuel, animal feed, pharmaceuticals, industrial activities, and the food service industry. Biscuits, spreads, chocolate, bread, personal care products, detergents, soap, lipstick… these are just a few of the multitude of items containing Palm Oil that you are more than likely to have in your home right now.

Palm oil is used extensively in the cosmetic and food industries and the global demand for it continues to rise with consumption exceeding 70 million metric tonnes annually.

With its use in so many everyday applications, it begs the question, how can this ‘tree of plenty’ be so bad? What is the real issue with palm oil?

The Dark Side of Palm Oil

The real issue with Palm Oil is its unsustainable production rather than the product itself. There is little regulation in the destruction of rainforest areas, and it is currently very difficult to trace whether the palm oil in products was really produced sustainably.

Unsustainable palm oil has a devastating effect on the environment. Palm oil has been, and continues to be, a major driver of deforestation of some of the world’s most biodiverse forests, causing mass destruction to the habitats of already endangered species, and contributing to climate change by releasing millions of tonnes of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. The aggressive burning and clearing of forests in Indonesia alone contribute to 12% of all global carbon emissions.

Aerial drone view of rainforest being burnt and cleared to make way for palm plantations in Indonesia.

The haze from Indonesian forest fires, many deliberately set to clear land for oil palms, caused at least 12,000 premature deaths in 2015 alone.

According to Greenpeace, land equivalent to the size of a football field is lost every 25 seconds in Indonesia alone. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) estimates that worldwide, around 300 football fields of forest are cleared every hour to make way for palm oil plantations.

Landcover, forest clearance and plantation development in PT Megakarya Jaya Raya (PT MJR) palm oil concession. Source: Greenpeace.

In Borneo, the island shared by Malaysia and Indonesia, since 1973, almost 42,000 square kilometers of rain forest has been burned and bulldozed to create space for oil palms. Since 2000, oil palms have accounted for 47% of the world’s total deforestation. All this deforestation has wreaked havoc on local wildlife. Nearly 150,000 endangered Bornean orangutans have perished from 1999-2015. According to a report from the World Wildlife Fund, elephants, Sumatran tigers, and rhinos are also on the brink of extinction.

Orangutans in Borneo where rainforest has been cleared for palm oil plantations. ULET IFANSASTI/GETTY IMAGES

Human rights abuses in and around these plantations run rampant. On the Indonesian island of Sumatra, palm oil companies have bulldozed entire villages of indigenous peoples, leaving their residents homeless and reliant on government aid.

In 2020, the Associated Press conducted a comprehensive investigation that focused on the brutal treatment of women employed on these plantations. The report highlighted the hidden scourge of sexual abuse (with many reporting repeatedly being raped by their employers), threats and verbal harassment along with human trafficking, child labour (as young as 5 years old), and what can only be considered as modern-day slavery. Women are burdened with some of the most dangerous jobs in the industry, forced to spend hours carrying such heavy loads that can cause their wombs to collapse. Chemically contaminated water can add to the burden by causing terrible sickness. Most workers are hired as subcontractors, without any benefits, and sometimes making only $2 per day.

Female worker carrying a heavy load at a palm oil plantation in Sumatra, Indonesia. (AP Photo/Binsar Bakkara).

It seems painfully ironic that palm oil, harvested in such ugly and inhumane ways, is used in products to make one ‘beautiful’.

Palm Oil and the Beauty Industry

The derivatives of palm oil (glycerol, fatty acids, or fatty alcohols) are used in many products because of their emollient or foaming properties.

The two main types of oil from the oil palm are palm oil and palm kernel oil. To make palm oil, the fruit is pressed to extract crude palm oil [CPO] which is refined to become edible. The CPO is then processed to become refined, bleached, and deodorized (RBD) palm oil. Alternatively, the oil can be extracted straight from the kernel as palm kernel oil. Palm kernel oil is what is used in the manufacture of foods and cosmetics because it can maintain its structure under high temperatures, it is creamy and smooth in texture, and it is odourless.

Although the beauty industry reportedly only accounts for 2% of global palm oil production, it can be found in as many as 70% of all beauty products. The fact that it is cheap and versatile makes it an attractive addition. In lipsticks, the addition of palm oil allows them to remain tasteless, prevents them from melting, and allows their colours to last much longer.

The problem with palm oil is ultimately one of production greed. Efficiency and low-cost equals good profit for companies that use palm oil in their products. This relentless drive for short term profit and growth always comes at the expense of something or someone. Sadly, this case is no different.

What has been done so far to manage sustainable Palm Oil?

In response to the urgent and pressing global call for sustainably produced palm oil, the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was formed in 2004 with the objective of promoting the growth and use of sustainable oil palm products through credible global standards and engagement of stakeholders. RSPO-certified palm growers are audited by an independent, accredited certification body that supposedly ensures that strict social and environmental guidelines are followed during production.

Although this represents progress, unfortunately the certifications are far from perfect and there are many loopholes. According to two separate reports from campaigning groups WWF and Rainforest Action Network, some of the world’s biggest brands are failing in their commitments to banish deforestation from their supply chains through their use of palm oil, despite making public claims to environmental sustainability.

Landcover, forest clearance and plantation development in PT Megakarya Jaya Raya (PT MJR) palm oil concession. Source: Greenpeace.

Is Palm Oil sustainable at present?

In the short term, NO. In the long term – truly sustainable palm oil, YES.

In September 2018, a comprehensive investigation by Greenpeace exposed how the world’s biggest brands are still linked to rainforest destruction in Indonesia. Palm oil suppliers to the world’s largest brands, including Unilever, Nestlé, Colgate-Palmolive and Mondelez, have destroyed an area of rainforest almost twice the size of Singapore in less than three years, according to the report.

The report highlighted how some of the largest members of the RSPO, who supposedly produce and sell ‘sustainable’ palm oil, routinely flout the laws and rules which they are supposed to abide by. The outcome of the report was that large companies who claim to only use sustainable palm oil in their products are in fact selling the public a lie and that production of sustainable palm oil under the RSPO is fiction.

There is now a realisation that RSPO-certification is currently “inadequate” as a guarantee that the palm oil in use is not leading to deforestation. In other words, just because a company or product is RSPO-certified there is NO guarantee that the palm oil they have used has not caused deforestation.

As a result of these collective failures, brands and traders who still source palm oil from non-sustainable producer groups are not just complicit in rainforest destruction and exploitation, but – through their palm oil purchases – actively funding those responsible for it. These factors represent the greatest known threats to Indonesia’s rainforests and local communities.

Read the Palm Oil Investigation by Greenpeace here

What can you do to support the sustainable production of palm oil?

It has been proven that palm oil production is NOT sustainable at present, and that deforestation, and devastation to human life, wildlife, and the environment continues because of it.

Palm oil’s reach is not going away anytime soon. It is found in just about everything — from cookies, chips, and bread, to wide a range of personal care products. Palm oil is part of our lives, but rainforest destruction and the cascading human health effects from the burning and clearing of forests shouldn’t be. Nor should the welfare of workers and neighboring communities who are violated at the cost of producing this vegetable oil.

In our opinion, and many others, the best option to support the sustainable production of palm oil is to AVOID purchasing beauty products (or any products) containing non-RSPO certified palm oil.

The best way to do this is by reading and understanding ingredient labels! DO NOT buy products with palm oil, palm kernel oil, or palm oil derivatives in the ingredient list unless the company states their palm oil ingredients are RSPO certified. It is important to note that when reading labels, ‘Palm Oil’ may not be listed, but one of its 200+ derivatives may be. Orangutan Alliance have compiled a list of alternative names for palm oil which you can read at the end of this article. Familiarizing yourself with some of them may seem a big task but a helpful tip is to avoid ingredients with the root word being ‘palm’ or that have ‘palm’ in it (for e.g., palmitic acid, hydrated palm glycerides, palm kernel, palm kernel oil, palm fruit oil, palmate, palmitic acid, palm stearine, palmitoyle, etc) or other common ‘palm’ derivatives with the words ‘stear’ and ‘laur’ (for e.g., stearate, stearic acid, and sodium lauryl sulfate). In New Zealand it is not a requirement to label a specific oil, ‘vegetable oil’ is acceptable. If an ingredient label states ‘vegetable oil’ then it is more than likely palm oil.

By avoiding products made with palm oil, and supporting companies who choose not to use palm oil, or palm oil derivatives, unless they are RSPO certified, we are being ‘conscious consumers‘. Conscious consumerism is a vital part of sustainability. It is the awareness of how every purchase that we make has an impact on the environment. By being a ‘conscious consumer’, we can all contribute to a more sustainable world that respects basic human rights, protects the environment and the planet so it will be here for future generations to enjoy. We are also sending a strong message that we won’t accept unsustainable and unethical products, giving the rain forests a bit of respite and a chance to survive.

Palm oil sustainability is a very complex issue with many consequences, but we can make a difference by choosing to buy palm oil free products wherever possible. The more we talk about this issue, share information with each other, and make a collective stand against it, the sooner truly sustainable palm oil will be available without the catastrophic effects linked to it now.

Final Thoughts…

The devastation to human life, wildlife, and the environment is simply too high a price to pay when it comes to buying beauty and skincare products that contain palm oil. We should all do what we can to support basic human rights, protect critically endangered species, and preserve our planet. There are companies out there trying to play their part by avoiding the use of non-RSPO certified palm oil in their products and we should do our bit by supporting them.

Natural skincare

Scenturie is a natural skincare brand based in New Zealand that lives by the ethos “Respect for our planet, its resources, and each other. Our products are cruelty-free, 100% vegan, ethically sourced, and free from harmful chemicals. We have chosen to avoid using palm oil and palm oil derivatives in our formulations, wherever possible. We use ‘Brassica alcohols’ as one of our chosen emulsifiers, which are naturally derived from waxes found in plants from the Cabbage (Brassica) family. They are a palm oil-free natural alternative for fatty alcohols used in skincare products. The other natural emulsifiers we use are cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate. These ingredients are developed from natural olive derivatives, however, the manufacturing process involves combining them with the ingredient cetearyl alcohol which is a RSPO-certified palm oil derivative. We are always on the lookout for an effective 100% palm oil-free emulsifier but to date we have not found one. This is the closest we can currently get to achieving palm oil-free status. We use NO parabens, sulfates, phthalates, glycols, silicones, phenoxyethanol, or mineral oils in our products. Our packaging is all recyclable, reusable, and compostable, and as part of our committment to ongoing sustainability we offer a returnable product packaging service. 

 

Alternative Names for Palm Oil Derivatives

Below are some examples of how palm oil may be referred to on packaging. This doesn’t mean that all these ingredients are definitely palm oil, (for instance E471 may be palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil or canola oil), but they could be. This list is from The Orangutan Alliance.

Acetic and fatty acid esters of glycerol (472a/E472a)
Acetylated Monoglycerides
Alkylamidopropyl betaine
Alkyl alcohol
Alkyl betaine
Alkyl ether sulfate
Alkyl Polyglucoside
Aluminum Myristates/Palmitates
Aluminium stearate
Aluminium, calcium, sodium, magnesium salts of fatty acids (470/E470a; E470b)
Amidopropyl betaine
Ammonium laureth sulphate
Ammonium lauryl sulphate
Amphoteric surfactant
Anionic surfactant
APG
Arachamide mea
Ascorbyl palmitate (304)
Ascorbyl stearate
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C)
Azelaic acid
Beta Carotene
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
BTMS
Butyl Myristate
Butyl stearate
Calcium lactylate
Calcium Myristate
Calcium oleyl lactylate
Calcium stearate
Calcium stearoyl lactylate
CAPB
Capric triglyceride
Caprylic acid
Caprylic / Capric Glycerides
Caprylic triglyceride
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride
Capryloyl glycine
Caprylyl glycol
Carboxylic acid soap
Carotene (Sometimes made from palm)
Castile soap (often from palm)
Castor Isostearate Beeswax Succinate
Ceteareth (2-100)
Ceteareth mbsfl laurethulanate
Ceteareth mbhe laurethulanate
Cetearyl alcohol
Cetearyl ethylhexanote
Cetearyl glucoside
Cetearyl isononanoate
Cetearyl and Sorbitan Olivate
Ceteth-20
Ceteth-24
Cetostearyl Alcohol
Cetrimonium Bromide
Cetremonium Chloride
Cetyl acetate
Cetyl alcohol
Cetyl chloride
Cetyl ethylhexanoate
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
Cetyl lactate
Cetyl Myristate
Cetyl octanoate
Cetyl palmitate
Cetylpyridinium chloride
Cetyl ricinoleate
Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride
Citric and fatty acid esters of glycerol
Cocoa butter equivalent (CBE)
Cocoa butter substitute (CBS)
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Coco-Caprylate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Coco Polyglucose
Cocoyl Sarcosine
Conditioning emulsifier
Decyl Glucoside
Decyl Myristate
Decyl oleate
Diacetyltartaric acid esters of monoglycerides
Diacetyltartaric and fatty acid esters of glycerol
Dicaprylyl ether
Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate
Dihydroxystearic acid
Diisostearyl Malate
Dilinoleic acid
Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate
Di-ppg-2 myreth-10 adipate?
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate
Distilled Monoglyceride Palm
Dodecanol
Elaeis guineensis
Emulsifiers: E304, E422, E430, E431, E432, E433, E434, E435, E436, E470, E470a, E470b, E471, E472, E472a, E472b, E472c, E472e, E472f, E473, E474, E475, E476, E477, E478, E479, E480, E481, E482, E483, E493, E494, E495
Emulsifying wax
Epoxidized palm oil (uv cured coatings)
Esterquats
Esters of Myristic Acid
Ethoxylated Lauryl Alcohol
Ethoxylated Monoglycerides
Ethoxylated SMS
Ethoxylated SMO
Ethoxylated STS
Ethyl lauroyl arginate (243)
Ethyl myristate
Ethyl palmitate
Ethylene glycol diesters
Ethylene glycol monoesters
Ethylene glycol monostearate
Ethyl hexyl Esters-2
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Ethylhexyl Myristate
Ethylhexyl Palminate
Ethylhexyl palmitate
Ethylhexyl stearate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Etyl Palmitate
Fatty acids
Fatty acid methyl esters (FAME)
Fatty alcohol alkoxylate
Fatty alcohol sulphates
Fatty amines
Fatty isethionate
FP(K)O – Fractionated Palm Oil
Fractionated Palm Oil
Glycerin
Glycerin or glycerol (442)
Glycerol esters
Glyceryl cocoate
Glyceryl dioleate
Glyceryl Dimyristate
Glyceryl distearate
Glyceryl laurate
Glyceryl Linoleate
Glyceryl monostearate
Glyceryl myristate
Glyceryl oleate
Glyceryl polymethacrylate
Glyceryl Rosinate
Glyceryl stearate
Glyceryl stearate SE
Glycol distearate
Glycol stearate
Guineesis (palm)
Hexadecanoic acid
Hexadecylic
Hexyl laurate
Hexyldecanol
Humectant 422
Humectant glycerol
Hydrated palm glycerides
Hydrogenated palm glycerides
Hydroxy Stearic Linolenic
Isoamyl Laurate
Isobutyl Myristate
Isocetyl alcohol
Isocetyl Myristate
Isocetyl stearate
Isodecyl Myristate
Isodecyl oleate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Isopropyl esters
Isopropyl isostearate
Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate
Isostearamide DEA
Isostearate DEA
Isostearic acid
Isostearyl alcohol
Isostearyl Hydroxystearate
Isostearyl isostearate
Isostearyl Myristate
Isostearyl neopentanoate
Isotridecyl Myristate
Lactic and fatty acid easters of glycerol
Lactylated Monoglycerides
Lauramide DEA
Lauramide MEA
Lauramine oxide
Laureth (Laureth-1, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-5, Laureth-6, Laureth-7, Laureth-8, Laureth-9, Laureth-10, Laureth-11, Laureth-12, Laureth-13, Laureth-14, Laureth-15, Laureth-16, Laureth-20, Laureth-21, Laureth-25, Laureth-30, Laureth-38, Laureth-40, Laureth-50)
Lauric acid
Lauroyl Lactylate
Lauroyl Lysine
Lauroyl sarcosine
Lauryl Alcohol
Lauryl Alcohol Ethoxylates
Lauryl betaine
Lauryl dimonium hydrolysed collagen
Lauryl lactate
Lauryl glucoside (from palm)
Lauryl Myristate
Lauryl pyrrolidone
Lauryl Sarcosine
Lecithin
Lecithin Isopropyl Palm Oil
Levulinic Acid
Linoleic acid
Magnesium myristate
Magnesium stearate
Metallic salts of lactylic esters of fatty acids
Methyl Myristate
Mixed tartaric, acetic and fatty acid esters of glycerol
Mono and di-glycerides of fatty acids
Mono glycerides of fatty acids
Monoglyceride citrate
Monopalmitate
Myreth 3 Myrisrate
Myristate
Myristic acid
Myristic Cetrimonium Chloride Acid
Myristoyl
Myristyl myristate
Myristoyl Sarcosine
Myristoyl Sarcosinate
Myristyl alcohol
Myristyl myristate
N-Butyl Esters
Nonionic surfactant
Octadecanoic acid
Octyl palmitate
Octyl stearate
Octyldodecanol
Octyldodecyl myristate
Octydodecyl stearate
Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate
Oleamide MIPA
Oleic acid
Oleyl betaine
Oleyl Myristate
Oleoyl Sarcosine
Olivem 1000
Oliv-emulse
Oliv-wax LQC
OPKO – Organic Palm Kernel Oil
Palmester
Palm fruit oil
Palmitoleic acid
Palm kernel amidopropyl amine oixde
Palm kernel amidopropyl betaine?
Palm kernel cake
Palm Kernel Diethanolamide
Palm kernel oil
Palm Kernel Olein
Palm Kernel Stearin
Palm oil
Palm olein oil
Palm stearine
Palmate
Palmitate
Palmitamidopropyl betaine
Palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride
Palmitic acid
Palmitoyl acid
Palmitoyl alcohol
Palmitoyl myristyl serinate
Palm oleic acid
Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oxostearamide
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide
Palmitoleic acid
Palm Methyl Ester
PBS Base
Palmolein
Palmfonate
Palmosalt
Partially hydrogenated Palm Oil
PEG-150 Distearate
Pentaerythritol tetra caprai caprylate
Pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Peptide complex
PG dicaprylate/caprate
PHPKO – Partially hydrogenated Palm Oil
PKO – Palm Kernel Oil
PKO fractionations: Palm Kernel Stearin (PKs); Palm Kernel Olein
PK oleic acid
Planta cleanse
Polyaminopropyl biguanide stearate
Polyethylene (40) stearate (431)
Polyglycerate-60
Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids
Polyglycerol esters of interesterified ricinoleic acid
Polyglycerol-2 oleyl ether
Polyglyceryl-3 dilisostearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate?
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
Polyglyceryl-4 laurate
Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether
Polyglyceryl-10 heptahydroxystearate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Polysorbate 60 or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate
Polysorbate 65 or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate
Polysorbate 80 or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monoolate
Polysorbate-20
Polysorbate-40
Polysorbate-60
Polysorbate-65
Polysorbate-80
Polysorbate-85
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Potassium Myristate
Potassium stearate
Propanediol dicaprylate
Propylene Glycol Alginate
Propylene glycol esters of fatty acids
Propylene glycol laurate
Propylene glycol monoester
Propylene Glycol Myristate
Propylene glycol stearate
Retinyl palmitate
Saponified elaeis guineensis
Saturated Fatty acid
Sleareth
SLES
SLS
sodium alkyl sulfate
Sodium cetearyl sulphate
Sodium cocoyl glutamate
sodium cocoyl glycinate
Sodium cocoyl isethionate
Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Sodium Dodecyl Sulphate (SDS or NaDS)
Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylaye
Sodium lactylate; sodium oleyl lactylate; sodium stearoyl lactylate
Sodium laurate
Sodium laurel
Sodium laureth sulfate
Sodium laureth sulphate
Sodium laureth – 1 sulphate
Sodium laureth – 2 sulphate
Sodium laureth – 3 sulphate
Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate
Sodium lauroamphoacetate
Sodium lauroyl lactylate
Sodium lauryl
Sodium lauryl ether sulphate
Sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate
Sodium Lauryl Lactylate/Sulphate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Sodium Myristate
Sodium palm kernelate
Sodium palm kerneloyl isethionate
Sodium palmate
Sodium palmitate
Sodium polyarylsulfonate
Sodium stearate
Sodium stearoyl Fumarate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Sodium Trideceth sulphate
Solubiliser PS20
Sorbitan Caprylate
Sorbitan Cocoate
Sorbitan Diisostearate
Sorbitan Distearate
Sorbitan ester
Sorbitan isotearate
Sorbitan laurate
Sorbitan monoglyceride
Sorbitan monolaurate
Sorbitan monopalmitate
Sorbitan monostearate (491)
Sorbitan oleate
Sorbitan olivate
Sorbitan palmitate
Sorbitan sesquioleate
Sorbitan trioleate
Sorbitan tristearate
Sorbitan tristearate (492)
Sorbitan triglyceride
Stearalkonium bentonite
Stearalkonium chloride
Stearalkonium hectorite
Stearamide MEA
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
Steareth-2
Steareth-7
Steareth-10
Steareth-20
Steareth-21
Stearic acid
Stearic acid or fatty acid (570)
Stearoyl sarcosine
Stearyl alcohol
Stearyl dimethicone
Stearyl heptanoate
Stearyl Stearoyl Stearate
Stearyl tartarate
Stearyltrimethylammonium Chloride
Stearoyl lactic acid
Stearoyl Sarcosine
Steartrimonium chloride
Succinylated monoglycerides
Sucrose esters of fatty acids
Sucrose stearate
Sucroseesters of fatty acids
Sulphonated Methyl Esters
Surfactant CCG
Taxanomic
TEA-lauryl sulphate
TEA-stearate
Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate
TMP esters
Tocotrienols (Vitamin E)
Tocopherols (Vitamin E)
Tocopheryl linoleate
Triacetin
Triacetin (1518)
Tribehenin
Tricaprylin
Tricaprylyl Citrate
Tridecyl Myristate
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate
Tristearin
Veg-emulse
Vegetable emulsifier
Vegetable glycerin
Vegetable Oil
Vitamin A palmitate
Vitamin C Ester
Yeast with 491
Zinc Myristate
Zinc stearat

Palm Oil: The Ugly Truth Read More »

Why natural skincare is best

Why Natural Skincare is Best

Natural Skincare & Clean Beauty

The beauty and skincare industry has seen its fair share of trends over the years. While you may have been happy to see some of those trends go, others have been beneficial. ‘Clean beauty’ is one such trend. ‘Clean beauty’ refers to the fact that many consumers (as much as 50% of women according to a 2017 survey) preferentially seek out facial and skincare products that have all-natural or organic ingredients. These products tend to be free of chemicals such as parabens and sulfates which have long been staples within the beauty and skincare industry. You may recognize them as the products with a plant on the label or packaging in muted, earthy tones, with words such as “natural”, “non-toxic”, and “cruelty-free” on its labels.

This shift away from traditional beauty and skincare ingredients has had its benefits. Based on a study conducted by the Environmental Working group, on average, it is estimated that women can put on one hundred and sixty-eight (168) chemicals on their body via their daily skincare regimen. That is a lot of chemicals! What is even more alarming is that not all these chemicals are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), so unfortunately you may not be aware of exactly what you are exposing yourself to. Is it safe or not? Is the benefit worth the potential risk for other problems? These are questions that we should all ask ourselves. We have listed below the reasons why natural skincare is best.

1. Better for your skin and better for your health

We know that the skin is the body’s first line of defence, and so it stands to reason that we would do all we can to preserve it and maintain it in optimal health. Why then would we expose it to harmful chemicals and toxins that can break down this protective barrier? What is even more concerning is that it has been shown that many of these chemicals and toxins can potentially be absorbed into the bloodstream where they can affect the nervous system, immune system, and reproductive system.

It is also noteworthy to mention that many of these products also have synthetic fragrances that (although they smell pleasant) are used to cover up chemicals. Most of these fragrances are also unregulated by the FDA and they may contain toxic chemicals. Many studies have reported that synthetic fragrances have the potential to cause “possible mutagenic and genotoxic effects.” Synthetic fragrances have also been found to contain hormone disruptors which have been linked abnormal cell reproduction.

By making the switch to using natural skincare products, you can put your mind at ease. These products tend to be void of many of the added chemicals that are unsafe. Natural products tend to be less irritating and once you choose the right products for your skin, you should be well on your way to natural, glowing skin. By removing those unnecessary chemicals, and using gentler products on your skin, you can avoid those pesky breakouts.

Why natural skincare is best

2. Better for the environment

Natural skincare is not only better for your body, but it is also better for the environment. When you use commercial beauty products and the chemicals are washed down the drain, they can be harmful to the local waterways. Ingredients within these products may also require mining which negatively affects that environment in so many ways.

Along with health concerns over the long list of hard-to-pronounce chemicals that are often found in conventional beauty and skincare products, there is also the fact that these often create a large carbon footprint. Ingredients commonly found in conventional beauty products such as petroleum and silicone are not only bad for our health but very harmful for the environment. The way in which traditional ingredients are extracted or manufactured often significantly impacts the environment, even if they occur naturally. For example, palm oil is a naturally occurring substance but for it to be harvested land must be stripped, leaving destruction in its wake. Most of the world’s palm oil is produced unsustainably with ancient native forests being replaced with palm plantations at frightening rates. This is leading to unprecedented levels of deforestation, fires, and habitat loss, which is threatening the survival of species such as the orangutan, Sumatran tiger, and the Sumatran rhino. The Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO)  has been working towards controlling the damaging aspects of palm oil production, but there still is much work to be done to close loopholes and ensure palm oil is in fact truly sustainable.

The packaging of products is also very problematic as plastics from packaging contribute to overflowing landfills and pollution of our oceans. Many natural brands try to find sustainable alternatives to packaging such as reusable glass containers or recycled materials.

 

3. Free from harmful chemicals

Many often find that by switching to natural skincare they find better products. Natural skincare companies invest time and money into ensuring that their products are safe for all skin types and do not have any deleterious side effects on you or your body. Unlike conventional products, there are no parabens, sulfates, phthalates, glycols, silicones, or phenoxyethanol.

But what is so bad about these chemicals? Let’s talk now about the common chemicals found in skincare products and why you should avoid them.

Chemicals you should avoid in your skincare products and why:

Chemical components on the shampoo

Parabens

Parabens are a group of chemicals widely used as artificial preservatives in cosmetic and body care products since the 1920s. Scientific studies suggest that parabens can penetrate the skin barrier, enter our bodies, and cause disruption of our endocrine system. This can interfere with our hormonal production by mimicking estrogen, potentially leading to reproductive and developmental issues. It has also been suggested in studies that parabens could play a role in the development of human breast, ovary, and testicular cancer. For these reasons, many countries have banned the use of some parabens in personal care products. Parabens can also cause skin irritation and there is research to suggest that there is a correlation between parabens in SPF products and damaged coral reefs.

Given the damage that can be caused to the endocrine system, reproductive system, and the environment, long-chain parabens (methyl-, isobutyl-, butyl-, isopropyl- and propylparaben) should not be used in personal care or cosmetic products.

Phthalates

Phthalates are chemicals that are used in a variety of household items, including personal-care products. One called diethylphthalate (DEP) is commonly used in fragrance ingredients. Like parabens, scientific studies have also shown that phthalates can be harmful to our bodies. A 2020 scientific review on the long-term consequences of phthalate exposure concluded that, based on several in vitro and in vivo studies, phthalates can act as endocrine disruptors and cause moderate reproductive and developmental toxicities. Furthermore, phthalates can pass through the placental barrier and affect the developing foetus. The potential adverse health effects in humans make it a ‘no-brainer’ to avoid these chemicals wherever possible. Phthalates usually appear on a label as DHEP or DiBP.

Sulphates

Sulfates are skin irritants that can strip skin of its natural oils causing dryness and irritation. Since it can penetrate the skin’s barrier, the continued use of sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), can cause a reaction that makes the skin more susceptible to the absorption of other irritants. Sulfates are mainly derived from petroleum but can be derived from plants, such as coconut or palm oil. Petroleum products are controversial due to their association with climate change, pollution, and greenhouse gases. Palm oil is controversial due to habitat destruction, amongst many other things.

A natural skincare alternative to sulfates includes gentle foaming agents like sugar or coconut. The best way to safeguard against the use of sulphates is to carefully read the ingredient list on product labels.

Glycols

Propylene glycol is derived from petroleum. It is a humectant, which means that it increases moisture retention in skin and hair. Typically, it is well tolerated by the skin and does not cause any redness or irritation, however, the problem with propylene glycol lies within the fact that it is a penetration-enhancing humectant. This means that it could possibly allow harmful toxins to be absorbed by the skin, where under normal circumstances this would not happen. This can include skin toxins such as pollutants and harsh chemicals that can cause irritation or allergic reaction.

Silicones

Silicones are commonly found in skin and beauty products where they confer a silky, luxurious texture. They can make skin appear and feel visibly smoother even though the effect is oftentimes temporary. Silicones are also water-resistant and so they can create a seal over skin that provides “hydration” benefits. However, silicones are not always beneficial to the skin. Since silicone is known to ‘seal things in’, this means that it can also trap dirt, sweat, bacteria, and dead cells.  When these are trapped for long periods of time, it can cause breakouts on the skin, especially for people who are prone to acne. Its semi-occlusive properties can also prevent additional moisture from being absorbed by your skin, leaving it looking dull and dry. The truth is that silicones offer virtually no benefit to your skin and any benefit they do offer is very short-lived and they often leave behind a heavy coating. From an environmental perspective, most silicones are not biodegradable. They wash down into our drains and into the environment, where they accumulate and can cause toxicity to wildlife.

As consumers trying to use high-quality ingredients that are better for our skin and the environment, the solution is to go natural with things like aloe vera, shea butter, and jojoba oil.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that is commonly used in many cosmetics and personal care products. It is an ether alcohol that is colorless and has a rose-like aroma and it is present in so many daily use products that you are likely to have a cupboard full of it at home. Phenoxyethanol is a popular ingredient as it inhibits microbial growth, stabilizes products, and enhances shelf-life. It can be listed on a label under several names, including 2-phenoxyethanol, phenoxytol, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, and 1-hydroxy-2-phenoxyethane. According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol is safe for all consumers when used as a preservative in cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 1%. Adverse systemic effects have been observed in toxicological studies on animals and plants but supposedly only when the levels of exposure were much higher than those to which consumers are exposed when using phenoxyethanol-containing cosmetic products. Interestingly, phenoxyethanol is classified as an irritant to the skin, eyes, and lungs, and as a result Japan and the EU have restricted its use. The question we all need to ask ourselves is “What happens when many other phenoxyethanol containing products are applied to our skin daily?”. Products such as: liquid hand soap, body wash, cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer, sunscreen, foundation, make-up, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, hair products, aftershave, dishwashing liquid, clothes washing liquid, bench spray, the list goes on. Phenoxyethanol is rapidly absorbed into the body once it makes skin contact. Although the single product you are using may only have 1% concentration of phenoxyethanol, what happens when you use many other products containing phenoxyethanol during the day, as we all do? That is a lot of phenoxyethanol being absorbed into your body, and/or being washed down the drain into the waterways.  

Preservation of skincare and personal care products is crucial to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungus, and microbes, however there are effective, approved, natural alternatives to phenoxyethanol which many natural skincare companies are now using.

There are other chemicals commonly found in beauty and skincare products that have also been found to be harmful. For example, aluminum is a toxic metal commonly found in products that can mimic estrogen and disrupt the healthy functioning of the endocrine system. Many products also contain synthetic fragrances, that are derived from petrochemicals, and contain thousands of different ingredients that are not listed on the label. Consequently, there is no way of knowing what you are being exposed to.

What can you do?

Most people are exposed worldwide to a variety of potentially harmful substances every single day. Although the amounts may be small, and the effects sometimes poorly understood, continuous exposure to a mix of these chemicals over long periods could have consequences for the health and well-being of people and society. 

With the new wave of natural beauty companies pledging to abstain from using these chemicals, avoiding harmful chemicals, such as parabens, phthalates, and sulfates, has become easier.

Laboratory Technician examines a sample of shampoo

As a consumer the single most important thing you can do for yourself is read and understand cosmetic labels! Become familiar with the chemicals in skincare products and decide what is important to you. Are you happy to be putting that paraben-containing product on your skin knowing that it could cause you adverse health problems down the track? Are you happy to buy that product that uses palm oil knowing that widespread devastation has occurred to make it? Are you happy to buy products packaged in plastic knowing the disastrous consequences of plastic pollution to our planet? Empower yourself and become an informed, conscious consumer. Buy natural products that list their ingredients on their labels and website. Choose products that are free from the chemicals listed above. Support companies that do not package their products in plastic. Buy products from companies that care about the things you care about and don’t just ‘talk the talk’.

Natural Skincare is best!

In conclusion, ‘clean beauty’ brands have been investing in our health and the wellbeing of our planet. It is important to support brands that not only use natural ingredients but that also align with your beliefs whether it is natural, vegan, organic, or cruelty-free. Guilt-free skincare is in! Skip the cocktail of chemicals – and embrace natural skincare! Your skin, your health, and the environment will certainly be glad you did!

Hipster girl enjoying nature in the park

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